LES ARTS DE LA TABLE: NOURRITURE ET CLASSES SOCIALES

LES ARTS DE LA TABLE: NOURRITURE ET CLASSES SOCIALES DANS LA
LITTÉRATURE FRANÇAISE DU DIX-NEUVIÈME SIÈCLE
DISSERTATION
Presented in Partial Fulfillment in the Requirements for
the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate
School of The Ohio State University
By
Anne V. Lair, M.A.
*****
The Ohio State University
2003
Dissertation Committee:
Approved by
Professor Jean-François Fourny, Adviser
Professor Dennis Minahen __________________________
Adviser
Professor Mihaela Marin French and Italian Graduate Program

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ABSTRACT
Prior to 1789, only the members of the aristocracy had access to fine cuisine and
that through chefs they privately employed. The French Revolution clearly had a
substantial impact on many aspects of French society, but one of the most notable
changes was the gastronomical revolution that took place at the beginning of the 19th
century. Selected works by 19th-century French authors provide vivid examples of the
results of this change in culinary habits and traditions.
The first chapter of this dissertation examines how the upper classes lived and
entertained, particularly through the private dinners they gave. In Honoré de Balzac’s La
Peau de Chagrin, the banquet, a tradition that carries over from Antiquity is examined.
These banquets were given by the upper classes included exceptional settings,
extraordinary foods and wines, and activities.
In the second chapter, one sees that members of the bourgeoisie used restaurants
to entertain their mistresses or to conduct business. However, this social class did not
have the savoir-faire nor the savoir-vivre to truly appreciate the pleasures of food.
Examples from Gustave Flaubert's L’Education sentimentale illustrate how the
bourgeoisie used restaurants. .
The third chapter focuses on Le Ventre de Paris by Emile Zola, which illustrates
the way the political regime can destroy the lower classes. The Halles de Baltard, which

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play an important role in Le Ventre de Paris, are a perfect example of Parisian
architecture of at the time and illustrate the importance of food during the 19th century in
France.
Chapter four focuses on Zola's L'Assommoir, which provides many examples of
the relationship of the working class to food. For example, the Parisian working class of
the Second Empire often celebrated major life events with large quantities of food, of
which they were severely deprived of during the Old Régime. These celebrations
included many types of foods, which symbolized strength and wealth. In conclusion,
unlike previous centuries where culinary pleasures had been reserved for upper classes,
the 19th century-gastronomical revolution enabled members of all social classes to not
only to have access to food but more importantly to find pleasure in food.

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En mémoire de ma mère, Jacqueline Lair

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REMERCIEMENTS
Ce long travail n’aurait pu être accompli sans l’aide de plusieurs personnes.
Tout d’abord, Jean-François Fourny, mon directeur de thèse qui m’a toujours encouragée
tout au long de mon doctorat, m’a donné confiance en moi, et m’a fait découvrir de
nombreux ouvrages passionnants sur la culture française et notamment Pierre Bourdieu.
Il est toujours intervenu lorsque j’avais besoin d’aide tout en me laissant ma liberté et la
possibilité d’être créative. Nos nombreuses discussions m’ont permis d’avancer dans
mon travail, et aussi de découvrir un excellent professeur. Parmi d’autres, il y a Dennis
Minahen, avec qui j’ai pris goût à la littérature du XIXe siècle, et Mihaela Marin qui m’a
fait découvrir Zola. De nombreux autres professeurs m’ont beaucoup aussi apporté
intellectuellement, Judith Mayne entre autre.
Sur un autre point de vue, mon fidèle mentor, Diane Birckbichler, m’a toujours
soutenue et offert de travailler sur différents projets en pédagogie qui ont tous suscité ma
joie et mon éveil. Ma sœur, Catherine, toujours là pour m’encourager, et mon père, que
j’ai si souvent envoyé faire quelques virées à la Fnac pour me procurer des ouvrages sur
la nourriture. C’est aussi avec lui que j’aime cuisiner le plus lors de mes visites en
France. Durant les derniers jours, Flavia Vernescu fut présente à mes côtés pour
compléter la dernière ligne droite qui semblait parfois un peu longue. Elle m’a beaucoup
soutenue et encouragée. A vous tous, merci.